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Not everyone is felled by such adidas superstar demands though. In Alexander Chee's novel Queen of the Night (2016), fictional 19th-Century opera singer Lilliet Berne enters a Parisian ball in a "creation of pink taffeta and gold silk". Pausing by a mirror, she is horrified to realise that it looks awfully garish. A consummate performer aware of her own stage presence, she hides in the crowd and eventually finds a set of dukes with an unusual taste for "returning women from an evening in their company with their dresses cut to pieces by sabers  and for supplying those women afterward with more dresses in return".

Seizing the opportunity, she allows them to sneak her off and destroy her taffeta like "an enormous flower torn to petals" in exchange for them procuring a new dress for her immediately. Several hours later she adidas trainers returns to the ball triumphantly "in a beaded black satin gown, the train behind me like the glittering tail of a serpent". She enters, sings, and the crowd roars with delight.An outright refusal to be shamed is also transgressive. Shola von Reinhold's Lote (2020), which recently won adidas nmd the Republic of Consciousness prize for small presses, begins with the narrator Mathilda being stopped and closely questioned at the entrance to an arts archive. She is dazzling in "eBay lab diamonds" and "silver leatherette" but observes dryly that "people rarely allow for Blackness and caprice (be it in dress and deportment) to coexist without the designation of Madness".

Lilliet and Mathilda are driven by very different things, but they share a taste for performance and an understanding of clothing as costume. Perhaps this is why they approach the question of wearing the "wrong" thing adidas yeezy differently. They are self-made women who are constantly fashioning themselves into who they want to be, meaning that they don't see dress as something that can betray anything especially intimate or wounding. Instead it becomes a source of limitless potential, offering them a tool to command attention  and an armour to deflect others.Clothes can be many things. They keep us warm. They offer comfort. They differentiate a wedding from a funeral. They can make us feel more like ourselves, or render us someone else entirely. But these scenes of sartorial disaster and distress, as well as, on occasion, defiance, acknowledge that fashion is not always easy or enjoyable.

When I was a teen I travelled from the US to Scotland with my family. On our first night in Edinburgh, we sat in a pub across from several Nigerian couples, resplendent in bell bottoms and African prints, paired with plaids and Harris tweeds. They were spinning the traditional textures into something chic, subversive and all their own. One woman wore a Shetland sweater under her embroidered dress, a wool scarf wrapped adidas originals stylishly on her head. I couldn't take my eyes off of her. It was a simple new logic  style and self definition over everything.

What I was learning is that resistance is often there in African fashion, it just needs to be noticed. Two powerful tools of Empire  the sewing machine and the camera  both arrived along the Atlantic coast in the mid-1800s and were used initially in campaigns of violence, coercion, typology making and control. African women, from the very first encounters with these tools, [img]https://www.milenarodrigues.com/images/detail/adidas originals-753rek.jpg[/img] would have approached them with an awareness of this power.
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